cole hersee smart battery isolator 48160

and the NCV3 Sprinter electronics get very upset when 'isolated' from the alternator.

With that gadget, the batteries (and the Sprinter's electronics) cannot 'see' the alternator. they don't have a relay, they depend upon semiconductors that only allow current flow in one direction (in TrippLite's drawing, from the alternator via separate paths to each battery). Ignore them.įootnote: yeah, there are 'diode isolators'. you'll see things like 'diode isolators' out there. what model year? (it affects what and where the 'D+' terminal looks like under the seat) (all of those links includes the 'helps Sprinter Forum with a few pennies' tag) I would add a fuse between the starter battery and the Stinger (MB does when they supply their Auxiliary Battery option). The BlueSea ACR simply wouldn't have the D+ connection, just the two battery wires. Here's how the Stinger would get wired in (the red wire already exists in your Sprinter): Those will not work in an NCV3 Sprinter (and aren't good in a T1N).((see footnote)) The 2nd question, of course, is 'how many amps?'Īdded: Looking at the TrippLite manual, i see they suggest (as it happens) a diode isolator. alternator running, or shore-power charging). Switches > Ignition-Switches Cole Hersee Heavy Duty Ignition Switch - Anti-Restart. If 'charges both ways', then something like the BlueSea ACR (automatic control relay) magically joins the batteries when either side gets to 13.5 volts (i.e. For details of the merchandise and display, request sheet D-569 or view it on the Cole Hersee website. If 'only', then something like a Stinger, with its coil powered by the 'D+' signal you'll find under the driver's seat (comes live when the alternator is actually running). For example, the 48051 with a rating of 75A has a per leg rating of. All LittelfuseCole Hersee brand battery isolators have a per leg rating equal to half the alternator rating. Battery isolators have a ‘per leg’ rating which indicates the maximum current it can deliver to either battery. (isolator and separator can be considered synonyms, and it's (at heart) just a relay).((see footnote))Īfter adding the footnote, i should 'fess up and say that the Stinger is an 'isolation relay'.īy 'control', i mean do you ONLY want it to join when the engine is running, or do you want it to also join when you've got shore power charging the house? Diode Battery Isolator (48160, 200A) 135.00. You've got one initial decision to make: do you want to control the isolator, or do you want it to make its own (perhaps problematical) decisions about when to join the batteries?

Cole hersee smart battery isolator 48160